Influencing differently: how Chinese male beauty influencers develop influencer marketing beyond Silicon Valley

Prior research in influencer marketing suggests the articulation of ideological values (e.g., Diversity, Equity, Inclusivity) can be critical to their commercial and cultural success, usually by signaling authenticity, relationality, legitimacy, and so on. Yet, prior studies have primarily focused on influencers in the commercial and cultural systems of the Global North, taking the ideologies of Silicon Valley for granted. We know far less about influencers and influencing in other markets and consumer cultures, under other ideological conditions. Our paper focuses on Male Beauty Influencers (MBIs) in China. These actors describe themselves as Wǎng Hóng, a term similar to, but not quite identical to, the Global North’s notion of an influencer. MBIs have markedly different business models and ideological environments than influencers in the Global North, tacitly advocating for more pluralistic understandings of masculinity simply by being men who publicly share beauty practices. While ideas and ideals like Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion rarely appear on Chinese social media, MBIs are highly successful, with vast followings and lucrative sponsorships. Reflecting on this paradox, we ask: are MBIs mostly similar to influencers in the Global North, or does Wǎng Hóng help elucidate different approaches to social media creation and consumption? We use a five-year netnography to identify Zhēn (Authenticity), Shàn (Kindness), and Měi (Beauty) as ideas and ideals, or ideologies, that outline MBIs’ distinctive approach to social media. We conceive this approach as an ideological antechamber — ideas or ideals that do not fit neatly into existing frames (i.e., DEI of the Global North) — and so elucidate the boundary conditions of influencer marketing by demonstrating influencers and influencing can manifest differently outside the sociohistorical trajectories of Silicon Valley and the Global North. In an era of divisive, hateful, and even violent forms of influencing, different marketing approaches are sorely needed.