Blackburn, RS orcid.org/0000-0001-6259-3807 (2017) Natural dyes in madder (Rubia spp.) and their extraction and analysis in historical textiles. Coloration Technology, 133 (6). pp. 449-462. ISSN 1472-3581
Abstract
Textiles coloration using extracts from the roots of various madder species (Rubia spp.) has been performed for centuries. To date, 68 anthraquinone colorants have been detected in Rubia spp. used to dye textiles. Many of these dyes are sensitive to hydrolysis and degradation from enzymes, extraction chemicals and processing temperatures, and are often overlooked as colorants in historical textiles. Conclusions in literature of the past 30 years concerning colorants present in planta and, particularly, in madder‐dyed artefacts are being challenged as new analysis methods are developed. The recent advent of ‘soft’ extraction techniques has demonstrated that anthraquinone glycosides and other sensitive molecules, such as carboxylated compounds, need to be preserved; this valuable chemical information embedded in the dye structure may be lost if extraction and analysis is too harsh. Some compounds thought to be present in madder and madder‐dyed artefacts are in fact degradation products resultant from the extraction process, and degradation pathways have been developed to better understand the reactivity and stability of these compounds. Detailed analysis of dyes in textile artefacts can reveal important cultural and heritage information concerning historical textiles relative to the specific dye species, the area of the world where this may have grown, how and where it was dyed, and, perhaps, where it was traded. Understanding the precise molecular structure of these dyes and their chemical reactivity is important to provide knowledge of their interactions with physical substrates, such as textile fibres, which could be used to develop superior techniques for analysis of artefacts.
Metadata
Item Type: | Article |
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Authors/Creators: |
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Copyright, Publisher and Additional Information: | © 2017 The Author. Coloration Technology © 2017 Society of Dyers and Colourists. This is the peer reviewed version of the following article: Blackburn, R. S. (2017), Natural dyes in madder (Rubia spp.) and their extraction and analysis in historical textiles. Coloration Technol, 133: 449-462. doi:10.1111/cote.12308, which has been published in final form at https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12308. This article may be used for non-commercial purposes in accordance with Wiley Terms and Conditions for Self-Archiving. Uploaded in accordance with the publisher's self-archiving policy. |
Dates: |
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Institution: | The University of Leeds |
Academic Units: | The University of Leeds > Faculty of Arts, Humanities and Cultures (Leeds) > School of Design (Leeds) |
Depositing User: | Symplectic Publications |
Date Deposited: | 15 Aug 2017 13:49 |
Last Modified: | 02 Oct 2018 00:38 |
Status: | Published |
Publisher: | Wiley |
Identification Number: | 10.1111/cote.12308 |
Open Archives Initiative ID (OAI ID): | oai:eprints.whiterose.ac.uk:120126 |
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