Thornton, AR, van der Horn, AJ, Gagarina, E et al. (3 more authors) (2014) Hele-Shaw beach creation by breaking waves: a mathematics-inspired experiment. Environmental Fluid Mechanics, 14 (5). pp. 1123-1145. ISSN 1567-7419
Abstract
Fundamentals of nonlinear wave-particle interactions are studied experimentally in a Hele-Shaw configuration with wave breaking and a dynamic bed. To design this configuration, we determine, mathematically, the gap width which allows inertial flows to survive the viscous damping due to the side walls. Damped wave sloshing experiments compared with simulations confirm that width-averaged potential-flow models with linear momentum damping are adequately capturing the large scale nonlinear wave motion. Subsequently, we show that the four types of wave breaking observed at real-world beaches also emerge on Hele-Shaw laboratory beaches, albeit in idealized forms. Finally, an experimental parameter study is undertaken to quantify the formation of quasi-steady beach morphologies due to nonlinear, breaking waves: berm or dune, beach and bar formation are all classified. Our research reveals that the Hele-Shaw beach configuration allows a wealth of experimental and modelling extensions, including benchmarking of forecast models used in the coastal engineering practice, especially for shingle beaches.
Metadata
Item Type: | Article |
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Authors/Creators: |
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Copyright, Publisher and Additional Information: | (c) 2014, Springer Verlag. This is an author produced version of a paper published in Environmental Fluid Mechanics. Uploaded in accordance with the publisher's self-archiving policy. The final publication is available at Springer via https://doi.org/10.1007/s10652-014-9350-7 |
Keywords: | Hele-Shaw cell; Laboratory experiments; Mathematical design; Shingle beaches; Potential flow and shallow water simulations |
Dates: |
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Institution: | The University of Leeds |
Academic Units: | The University of Leeds > Faculty of Engineering & Physical Sciences (Leeds) > School of Mathematics (Leeds) > Applied Mathematics (Leeds) |
Depositing User: | Symplectic Publications |
Date Deposited: | 24 Mar 2017 12:50 |
Last Modified: | 21 Jan 2018 18:54 |
Published Version: | https://doi.org/10.1007/s10652-014-9350-7 |
Status: | Published |
Publisher: | Spinger Verlag |
Identification Number: | 10.1007/s10652-014-9350-7 |
Open Archives Initiative ID (OAI ID): | oai:eprints.whiterose.ac.uk:109063 |