Investigation into the removal of pigment, sulphur and vat colourants from cotton textiles and implications for waste cellulosic recycling

Cotton can be coloured by dyeing and printing using either dye or pigment colourants. Pigments are insoluble in water but can be dispersed in a polymer print binder and heat-fixed to the fabric. Vat and sulphur dyes similarly have low solubility in water but through alkali/reduction can be solubilised and exhausted onto the cotton fibre. Following their reoxidation, the dyes are insolubilised in the fibre and, like pigment prints, in general exhibit good wash fastness. In this study, sequential acid/alkali/peroxide or acid/dithionite/peroxide treatments were investigated as a means of removing pigment/polymer prints and common sulphur and vat dyes from coloured cotton fabric. Using the sequential acid/dithionite/peroxide treatment, up to 97% of both sulphur and vat colourants could be “stripped” from dyed cotton producing a white cellulosic feedstock material that could be used for “new” fibre regeneration. By contrast, the “stripping” of the pigment/polymer binder colourant system was less predictable and less complete and is probably a reflection of the different chemical natures of the polymer binder and pigments. This contrasting behaviour highlights the range of chemistries applied to cotton and that developing a universal single treatment to strip out all finishes may be problematic.