Modernisation and the practices of contemporary food shopping

This paper examines the relationship between modernisation, consumption, and society, challenging received ideas about the distinction between ‘modern’ and ‘premodern’ geographies of food consumption. While conventional accounts posit a historical progression from premodern to modern forms of consumption, associated with the rise of the supermarket and the demise of the corner store, we argue that such distinctions may, in fact, refer less to a historical process of transition than to a contrast between different forms of contemporary sociality, experienced simultaneously in different sites of consumption. By drawing critically on the work of Augé and his contrast between places and nonplaces, these ideas are then put to work empirically in an examination of contemporary food shopping in Germany, focusing particularly on notions of consumer trust. A practice-based and ethnographically informed account of food shopping in Germany shows how distinctions between ‘traditional’ and ‘modern’ forms of consumption involve historicised accounts of contemporary consumption spaces and their associated socialities rather than referring to historical differences per se.