Improved coloration of hemp fabrics via low-pressure argon plasma assisted surface modification

Interest in hemp as a viable cellulosic fibre for clothing has increased, driven partly by its economic benefits and the importance of natural renewable materials in emerging circular economies. However, the coloration and chemical finishing of lignocellulosic fibres such as hemp typically require large quantities of water and chemicals. Argon plasma pretreatment provides a way of modulating the physical properties of hemp fibres to improve the coloration process without compromising other bulk properties such as tensile strength. Such plasma treatments may contribute to alleviating the negative environmental impacts associated with liquid pretreatments, heating, or the use of auxiliary chemicals. Dyeing of hemp fibres is particularly challenging due to its crystalline chemical structure. In this study, low-pressure argon plasma-assisted surface modification of woven hemp fabrics up to 600 s at 40 and 80 Hz was explored for enhanced dyeability, resulting in enhanced dye-fibre bonding. Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy of argon plasma pretreated hemp fabrics produced no noticeable changes in the functional groups of the fibres, but a physiochemical modification was observed in terms of the density of polar groups. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) images revealed marked morphological changes including nano-etching of the fibre surface at certain argon plasma process conditions. The pretreatment process increased fibre hydrophilicity, and enhanced reactivity of the surficial –OH groups towards fibre-reactive and vat dyes, resulting in higher colour strength in dyed woven hemp fabrics. Overall, we envisage such plasma pretreatments may impact positively on the material and energy efficiency of the hemp fabric dyeing process.