Giving up sugar and the inequalities of abstinence

Sugar is increasingly supplanting fat as public enemy number one in public health campaigns, and calls for significant reductions in consumption have provided fertile ground for the proliferation of popular texts and services advocating sugar abstention. This article explores three modes of popular sugar abstention (evangelical, experimental and charitable). These vary in chronology, philosophy and the intensity of abstention, but all serve as sites of identity production and self‐entrepreneurship for those able to advocate for, and engage with, them. The article argues that these abstention narratives are not only premised on the exercise of social privilege, but that they also necessarily reproduce and sediment those social hierarchies. This is achieved through a combination of nutritionism and healthism, dislocating sugar and its consumption from the vast social, economic and environmental inequalities within which both the consumption of sugar, and the act of giving it up, is made meaningful.