Supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO₂) dyeing of cellulose acetate: An opportunity for a “greener” circular textile economy

This article compares the dyeing of cellulose diacetate (cellulose-based) and polyester fabrics using supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO₂) and aqueous media. The benefits of dyeing in SC-CO₂ were clearly demonstrated in laboratory-based and pilot-scale studies in terms of increased colour strength, uniformity, fastness and the absence of auxiliaries such as dispersing agents or surfactants. In addition, the “super-levelling” nature of the SC-CO₂ medium was demonstrated in the reprocessing of polyester “waste textile” and the re-use of the “locked-in waste” colourant. The SC-CO₂ processing medium can be utilised to accurately colour “multiple life” polyester and cellulose acetate uniformly and to creatively tie-dye polyester and cellulose acetate fabrics. Through SC-CO₂ fluid technology, we can envisage a viable waterless circular manufacturing and recycling/remanufacturing framework for the predominantly polyester global fibre market coupled to the sustainably sourced, biodegradable cellulose diacetate as a replacement for cotton. The key technical and commercial advantages being the use of a single solvent dye class for both polyester and the cellulose diacetate, saving on energy costs, integrated simpler processing, reduced water usage and associated efficient recycling. Further, repositioning the cellulosic fibre industry towards using sustainable forests is attractive in terms of improved land, water and environmental management.