A comparative study of trouser pattern making methods

The rate of wearing trousers by females has increased in our modern society, and increasing demands for trousers are not only for functional aspects but also aesthetic aspects, physical suitability and movement adaptability. Fit is one of the major concerns for the clothing industry, and pattern development process is significant during clothing manufacturing and the way clothing is constructed. Various pattern making methods have been introduced to the industry considering clothing fit satisfaction, but it is still impossible to provide the optimized clothing pattern for mass production. This study evaluated four trouser pattern making methods known as the Aldrich, Armstrong, Bunka, and ESMOD methods focusing on fit consideration by application onto human subject’s evaluation test. The fundamental body dimension data were measured by a 3D body scanning system, and four trousers according to the four different methods were produced by both manual methods and an apparel CAD programme. The developed trouser pattern blocks were compared using each part of constructing formula and actual sizes. Experimental trousers were evaluated by expert and subject using questionnaires, focus group, and in-depth interview. The result of evaluation was analysed by statistical and qualitative analysis.