Flags and Shields: Muslim Socialities and Informal Livelihoods in Dar es Salaam

In this article, I explore entanglements of Muslim sociality and informal livelihoods in Dar es Salaam. I propose that Muslim practices of affiliation deserve to be counted among the ordinary strategies that urban majorities employ to navigate the city amidst conditions of uncertainty. Building on Stephan Lanz and Martijn Oosterbaan’s (2016) work on “entrepreneurial religion,” I draw on fifteen months of ethnographic research in Kariakoo, a super‐dense market district at the center of the city. The first part of my analysis explores associational life in Dar es Salaam, combining a historical overview with ethnographic description. I explore how urban actors use affiliations to football teams and political parties to generate livelihood opportunities and to secure protection. The second part of my analysis uses emic notions of “flags” (bendera) and “shields” (ngao) to demonstrate that Muslim modes of association operate in strikingly similar ways to those pertaining to football and politics. Engaging with the conceptual vocabularies of AbdouMaliq Simone and Erving Goffman, as well as recent debates about “everyday” and “lived Islam,” this article foregrounds the interplay between religious forms and neoliberal processes of informalization as they are unfolding in African cities and beyond.[Tanzania; Dar es Salaam; Urban Religion; Muslim Urbanism; Informal Economy; Associational Life.]